Performance - "The Basics"

"Spec" settings - A bow is designed and built to be a certain draw weight, length, axle-to-axle, brace height, tiller, cam orientation, and/or cam timing. Bows often "settle out" of these specs and performance is lost in either speed or accuracy.
 
Cam timing/orientation - Whether it is a two cam, binary, or cam 1/2. Timing is critical to both accuracy and speed. Also, a common misconception is that a single cam bow does not "get out of time". Though it may not get out of time, if the cam orientation is off, the bow is not properly tuned.

Basic set-up and alignment - Details such as rest centershot and level is critical to accuracy and broadhead flight. Many of the "little" details are often overlooked in the overall set-up of a bow. Timing of a fall-a-way rest is one of the most common set-up errors we see. These small details make a huge impact on overall performance.

The devil is in the details...just like any other sport, the fundamentals are the key. A poorly tuned bow is the single biggest cause of frustration for many archers. Don't let minor details cause you major headaches!!

Perfection - "The Bottom Line"

The bottom line...I once had a local shop owner tell me he didn't believe in fine tuning for his customers because none of them could shoot well enough to know the difference. Did he ever stop to think why that was the case? No matter what you believe your skill level to be, a properly tuned bow and arrows WILL make you a better shooter. If a bow is not set-up and tuned properly it is not as forgiving as possible. If the arrows aren't built to the bow and shooter, they will vary from shot to shot. What does a "forgiving" bow and matched arrows mean to the shooter? You don't have to be a great shooter...but the bow will be so forgiving it won't matter if you are great or not. Don't settle for anything less than perfection. Let Bow Pro Archery Services give you the confidence in your equipment you've always wanted.  

Precision - "Fine Tuning"

Arrow tuning - Other than poorly tuned equipment, the wrong arrow or an arrow not "built" for the bow shooting it is a major source of poor performance. The worst thing an archer can do, given the technology available today, is walk into a shop, grab a dozen arrows out of a box, have them cut to length, and walk out the door. (Yeah...just like you did the last time you bought arrows!!) Cam type, draw weight, arrow length, arrow spine, straightness tolerance, Front-of-Center balance, fletching type, and point weight should all be evaluated before a shaft is even selected. The next consideration is what is the arrow is being used for. Different hunting and tournament situations require different arrow types. Arrows great for hunting whitetail may not be good for elk. One fletching type may be great of indoor archery but poor for FITA or 3D. All the factors must be evaluated and then, and only then, a shaft should be selected, indexed, cut, and fletched. 

Bow tuning - Creep tuning, draw cycle, French tuning, Hooter Shooter, walk back tuning, cam valley, paper tuning, draw board, back wall, floating yoke, and the Standing Crane....OK that one was from The Karate Kid..but the rest of those methods are important to the performance of your bow. Don't have a clue about a few (or maybe all) of those terms? You should or you're not getting the best our of your equipment. These very precise tuning methods are used by professional archers around the world to make their equipment perform at a level most of us can barely conceive. Want 10" groups at 100 yards? How about not being able to shoot at the same X at 40 yards for fear of busting shafts? These methods can make it possible.